Trains and Automobiles

When I last filed we were on the ICE high speed train passing through the German countryside on the way to Berlin. The trip flew by and was such a nice break from flying and driving. We had a whole car to ourselves. We were both stuck by the orderliness of the countryside and the impression of a country that means business and is making inroads on dealing with a transition to cleaner energy sources. Not sure if we consider nuclear 'cleaner' but they have made a real commitment to nuclear based on the number of installations we saw. Also lots of clusters of huge windmills and solar panels on all manner of buildings. As for industry it is impressive to pass by iconic German industries such as Bayer - they have a huge factory near the Dutch border - that is notable for an enormous Bayer cross sign brilliantly lit up and what must be half a football field in diameter. The original brick buildings go on for what seems kilometres. Later, as we neared Berlin, we passed through Wolfsberg the home of VW. Equally impressive.

I should back track to just before we got on the train. We woke in Dusseldorf and headed out in our rental car to find a place dear to me - the Benedictine monastery just across the border in the Netherlands at Vaals. I had stayed there for three weeks about thirty years ago and I had always dreamed of returning and showing Sue this remarkable place. After about a 60 k drive and with the help of a lovely shop owner in Vaals we tracked it down and arrived just as mass was starting. It was all as I recalled; the sunlight in the space catching the smoke from the incense, the solemnity of the mass, the 'dance' of the monks as they chanted, moved from place to place and enacted a ritual they did daily as though it was the first and last time they had performed this rite. All in the most simple but 'perfect' architectural space. Such a far cry from the grandeur of St. Paul's.

After mass we hung around as I hoped to see my host Kees who had spent so much time with me all those years ago. To my great surprise I was told he left the monastery 25 years ago and was married and had a family in Italy. Our stay was brief but I am deeply gratified to see this place again and have all my impressions confirmed and for Sue to understand this remarkable place.

After Vaals we stopped briefly at Aachen, the German town on the border with Holland and Belgium. Incredible network of squares, cathedrals, and intimate streets dating back to Charlemagne. Touristy but spectacular.

Ok back to the train. We pulled into the massive Berlin Hauptbonhof - a beautiful, modern station under a massive curved glass roof, descending five stories. We were struck immediately by knots of Ukrainian refugees. Young families with all their belongings in plastic bags being hovered over by welcomers in high vis vests. There were lots of those. It reminded me of VGH in early covid as health care workers were poised to render assistance. The contrast of these confused families with young children holding bags of donated toys to the pace of the station was notable.

We have relied a lot on the good nature and warmth of people who occupy the information kiosks at train stations and airports along the way (see earlier note on travelling like a student) but we were steered wrong by a malevolent ticket person at the Berlin Hauptfonhof. Maybe she was pissed at having to help refugees but she tersely sent us off on a train in an opposite direction to our airbnb. Cue the next HK hissy fit "why the f.... do we have to travel like students!!!!" comment to Sue on a suburban train platform as drunk Germans surrounded us and ne'er-do-wells of all stripes closed in. Ok slight exaggeration. Sue, bless her steely heart, got info from a guy at a snack stand - "You Canadians! Hey my relatives live in Calgary" he beamed as he gave us directions and I fumed and relinquished all control. Enough said. We made if fine to our quirky but beautiful airbnb in a courtyard in the middle of a typical Berlin six storey apartment building.

The next day we did the obligatory tour down the main ceremonial boulevard which was overwhelming. After the intimacy of Amsterdam, Berlin is huge and at first blush the massive edifices, museums, embassies, monuments to Prussian greatness, huge plazas are simply irritating. Ok I get it you are / were a great nation. Maybe it was a hangover from the end of the day before but I simply wasn't ready to like Berlin. I have a hard time getting enthused about the grandeur and military centric history of this nation that has wreaked such havoc. I think about Sue's Uncle Herbert shot down over Holland at the age of 27 leaving a wife and two children. Or Uncle Fred killed at barely 20 and the havoc that wrought on our family. To top it off we migrated to the bleak and mysterious plaza, an entire city block, filled with concrete slabs of identical dimension but different heights, set on an undulating plane. It is the monument and memorial to the European Jews killed in the war. In the centre below the concrete ceiling follows the undulations above and the geometry of the slabs is brought down into the displays below. It all makes architectural 'sense'. But when you immerse yourself in the displays that chronicle the plight of the Jews from the nations the Nazis ran over it leaves you weak. Often I almost left as I just couldn't see any more horrific images. How could a nation allow this to happen?

As an antidote to my glum view of historical Berlin we strolled further down the ceremonial boulevard and ended up at the Brandenberg Gate which was impassable as there was a public concert underway in support of Ukraine. Everywhere in this city there are signs of support for Ukraine. It was cool to be in with the crowd and the mood was good. Great tunes and even though all the speeches and music were in German you caught the vibe. Later we climbed the 270 steps to the top of the Siegessaule - the tower / statue at the end of the Tiergarten with the gold statue on top, looked down at the distant concert and watched the sun go down. Apparently Albert Speer added another 25' to to the height at Hitler's orders. The day ended with a great Italian dinner at a local eatery in our neighbourhood - Prenzlauer Berg - the former East German, formerly downtrodden area. It has been described as hip and the home to many young urbanites with young kids. There are a lot of strollers in this hood.

Today, after a good sleep, and another beautiful sunny day, I felt much more open to Berlin. And it didn't disappoint. I have to loop back to my sense of gloom that infused my previous day and give Berlin some credit. There can't be another city that is so willing to unearth, examine and fess up to its history. Also what is so striking about this history is that it is so recent. The most significant and present history is the legacy of the Nazi's and plight of the Jews and the division and subsequent reunification of Berlin - both occurring in the last 80 years.

Yesterday's visit to the Jewish experience museum gave us a sense of the former and a visit to the Jewish 'quarter', following a Rick Steeve's walking tour gave us a further sense of this historical reality. The city has and still does go through great efforts to bring this aspect of their history to light. When you walk the historical 'trail' of the Jewish neighbourhood you see small clusters of brass plaques set in the paving stones. Inscribed are names of the Jewish families who lived on this spot and their fate - written in German but the word 'Auschwitz' leaves no question of their fate. When we walked by a current Jewish school you notice a Police officer pacing in front. In a city where there seem to be a lot of Police this was noteworthy.

On another self directed walking tour (Rick Steeve's walking tours are fabulous) we found a historical location of the Berlin wall complete with brass model of the neighbourhood, huge mural and audio display 'pillars' with recorded lessons on the wall. One was an account by a young man who successfully got over the wall from the east in 1973. After breaching the wall and its barbed wire top he fell feet first on to a bed of 6-8" nails. It was gruesome but he survived. As I mentioned we are staying in a former East German neighbourhood. You would never know as it is the loveliest, and liveliest neighbourhood. The rich, recent history of this city is remarkable.

Today was a day on foot going along beautiful streets, through great neighbourhood parks and squares and acting as it seems most locals do - eat good food in cafes, drink coffee and beer and love a beautiful spring day in a very cool, dynamic city. The streets are wonderfully scaled with a constant row of 5 to 6 storey buildings. Wider buildings than Amsterdam. But it is a city of courtyards, hollowed out areas in the building blocks, where there is great life. Walking Berlin is where it comes to life.