Pezenas

Our friends Margot Paris and Chuck Brook have been the most extraordinary and welcoming hosts. I first met Margot at architecture school and Chuck years later when he did development consulting. Around 2013 they pulled up stakes from a great life in West Van, sold their home, placed all their belongings in a container and moved lock, stock and barrel to this town of approximately 8,000 in the Languedoc region of southern France. Margot has flourished as an artist and Chuck has nourished his passion for all things historical. What a lesson in having the courage to embark on the 'troisieme etage'.

Staying with them for the last 2 1/2 days has been incredibly stimulating and fun. Amazing food prepared by Margot -"I just threw a few things together for a picnic" was a typical line. Right - magnificent fried chicken ("I added some pieces of spiced jambon to the seasoning"), slightly cooked green beans, pickles and beer followed by creme caramel all eaten after an 8k hike and perched in an ancient cemetery overlooking vineyards. That was a highlight of day one.

Sue and I had arrived in high spirits after loving Berlin and feeling like we had hit our stride. Pezenas was another level of warmth, comradery and stimulation. Yesterday, our second full day, Chuck, Sue and I drove out into the surrounding country side in their little Fiat Panda and roamed the hills and valleys of the surrounding area, eventually getting 'lost'. Our refrain was "What was the name of that town again - the one we just left?". We stopped in ancient habitations (village, towns ... just doesn't fit) where Chuck would fill us in on the settlement's founders dating back centuries. I had never heard of the Cathars, the small Catholic sect that were persecuted and horribly eradicated by mercenaries sent out by the church. Chuck filled us in on the Crusade, the black plague, Roman engineering, the significance of round vs square church towers, the knights Templar, Hospitaliers.... His passion was contagious.

Equally so is Margot's deep engagement in all things artistic. As she explained to me and Sue she had to leave Vancouver, the place of her birth and the place where she would always be known as someone's wife, mother, aunt, sister etc., to discover and nurture her true calling. I had always know Margot as a 'doer' extraordinaire but to see their home and garden in the centre of this medieval town with all her and Chuck's life passions on display was eye opening. We felt at home and inspired.

The images really tell the story of this area of France. Apparently Rick Steeves has advised travellers coming from Spain to drive through this area to Provence and not to bother stopping. That's ok with Margot and Chuck and inhabitants of Pezanas. The town has a vitality that is at odds with the ancient building form which is guarded by historical building guidelines that seem to prohibit any built intervention that isn't 'authentic' ie meshes with buildings built in the 1,400's. There are fine restaurants (that we didn't need to go to thanks to Margot), theatre, arts and a truly vibrant Saturday morning market. There the food on display and being prepared was fabulous.

After another great picnic on a beach by the Med it was sad to say goodbye to our brilliant hosts at the train station in Bezier en route to Toulouse. Time to catch our breath and catch up on this blog. Two days in Toulouse then sadly Sue heads back to Vancouver and my next adventure - the Camino - awaits. A bientot.