Camino - Melida and beyond

It is Thursday, May 4 and we have arrived at Arzua, a small town two days walk from Santiago. This is day twelve and the Primitivo is taking its toll. Today was a short walk from the town of Melida - only 15k. Despite the short distance it was the most difficult for me as my knee was giving me real trouble. Pride goeth before the fall as for the past day I have been feeling somewhat superior to those who are just joining the Camino for the minimum 100k distance. Walking at a snail's pace we were being passed by everyone - so much for the 'Vancouver Express' as we had been dubbed.

It is a bittersweet feeling these days. With the influx of pilgrims joining from the classic Frances route and so many doing the 100kms the trail is thick with walkers of all stripes. Until recently there may have been three bags being picked up in a hotel lobby to be transported to the next inn (2 of which are ours) yesterday there must have been fifty. Days ago on the Primitivo route in the Austurias hills we knew everyone we encountered. Cafe stops where rare, maybe one a day, and when you rounded the corner and saw one you were beckoned in by welcoming cheers - "Hey Vancouver!". Now we see no one we know as we are out of synch and flow of pilgrims has melded us all together.

The Camino offers stunning vistas but for me absolutely the best experience are the very real bonds you create with your fellow peregrinos (pilgrims). If you sit down to a meal and folks you recognize come in there is no question about shuffling tables to create a communal meal. We have met no other Canadians but consistently share cervezas with Danes, Brits, Germans, Irish, Spanish, Portugese, Dutch, Slovaks, Americans, Australians. To fall in stride with three or four new friends for me has been an absolute joy. What is it about the Camino that creates that? Shared sense of purpose? Absence of day to day cares? A common mindset that comes with undertaking this adventure? All of the above.

It does take initiative to connect. For days we have passed a solitary figure with a huge backpack slowly walking the trail. He ate alone and we assumed he was Spanish as he kept to himself. As we passed him the other day I finally turned to say hola and Buen Camino (the lovely phrase that is both 'hello' and 'goodbye') and found out his name - Herve - a Parisian. Sue jumped in and he lit up as he found someone to speak French. Yesterday we were passed by a solo walker who engaged us in conversation - Alberto a poet from Lisbon. He was thrilled to tell us about a recent visit he had in Leon with one of Spains greatest living poets. We walked together for about 15 minutes during which we learned his own poetry will soon be translated and published in English and we enquired about this Buddha tattoo with his cat nestled in Buddha's lap. Completely engrossing.

The form of the 'mountains', the consistent up and down of the walk, have given way to a more tame daily experience. Small cafe / restaurants along the path are frequent. Isolated stone farm buildings and the attendant chapels have given way to small towns and longer stretches of pavement walking. Another interesting structure has shown up - the small, raised rectangular 'house' that is on top of a stone base. They often are adorned with a cross and have wood slat walls and peaked roofs. A granary?

Of the towns a memorable one is Lugo where we stayed a couple of nights ago. In the centre of town is the only surviving Roman walled enclosure that circles the old city. Inside the walls is a beautiful network of alleys opening to wider streets, squares and a magnificent cathedral built in the 12th century. It is one of the few church structures that have been open and Sue and I uncharacteristically ponyed up the 8 euros for the tour.

Since entering Galacia the monuments that point the way on the Camino are plentiful, well maintained and have some subtle differences to those in Asturias. The shell points in the same direction as the route as opposed to the blunt end of the shell and more importantly the distance to Santiago is on every marker. They are also more frequent. Every 400m or so the mileage to go is presented and it is hard to avoid. We are currently under 50k. Hopefully my leg will hold out and we relish the prospect of reuniting with some of our new found chums on Saturday in front of the Cathedral.