Art, bike riding, walking

The past two days in Amsterdam have been great. Sunny weather, lots of satisfying walking and time in first rate art museums. We have a good drill down pat with coffee and breakfast of local baked goods at the pad and a picnic lunch. Yesterday, after a wonderful time at the Van Gogh museum we went to the major park, Vondel park, and had a picnic on a sunny bench. The Van Gogh was a fabulous art experience. We were there for about three hours with a coffee and pastry break at the mid point. It is laid out so well as you are drawn further up the three storey building, further into the life and development of the artist. It was crowded with school kids but people flowed well and you could spend some time up close with iconic paintings. Biggest takeaway? I guess it's a big 'duh' but he didn't use colour 'accurately' instead made faces green, skies yellow, fields blue - whatever he felt conveyed the emotion and essence of what he saw. Good life lesson - don't follow 'rules' all the time.

After the Van Gogh we rented bikes and after warming up in Vondel Park we headed into the stream. I so want to do a series of photos on Amsterdamers on their bikes from elegant men and women to all manner of double / triple riding, child transport, dog transport. All done with a flow reminiscent of a chaotic mountie musical ride. After looking right when stepping off the curb in London it is 'comforting' to look left. Except that in addition to vehicles you have a steady stream of bikes and scooters coming at you - silently. Often with people on their phones or smoking. But rarely do you hear a bell or a shout. Just a steady dance of bikes. It is such a fun place to ride.

Today we took in the Staedlick modern art gallery followed by the Reijksmuseum. The former had a great early 20th century design floor and two floors of fairy avant garde ie incomprehensible contemporary work. The Reijksmueum is magnificent. We used the audio guide that walked you through the 21 most significant works including Vermeer and Rembrandt. The Night Watch, the huge Rembrandt, was under repair. It was behind glass with a swing stage lift in front of it. The frame had been taken off and so it was a canvas with the raw edges exposed. The canvas had been slightly buckling so they came up with a system of wire with spring tighteners that they can use to adjust the tension of the canvas. That in itself was fascinating to see. Other highlights - three painting by Vermeer within 15 feet of each other. I had heard he had only painted 12 so it was a fairly dense representation. Funny how Van Gogh is so celebrated while Vermeer and so many of the Dutch masters had such amazing technique and aesthetic. Another highlight was the collection of statues of Buddhist and Hindu deities and ancient asian pottery. A vase dating back to 1,100 was so simple and modern. Just to bring us back to earth we walked home through the red light district which of course was teeming. Sex front and centre. Stopped in at a small Mexican restaurant for supper which was probably the best Mexican food we have ever had. Small tacos and enchilladas that the staff were very proud to serve. Food and beverage in Amsterdam is off the charts and so accessible. Just like the streets, every establishment is packed and happening.